BySukant Deepak

January 27, 2022 (IANSlife)  The stark contrasts in Srinagar are what make the spaces in-between breathtaking, terrifying, and seductively blank. Under the cloud-capped sun and the melancholy that comes with the permanent grey weather of January here; amidst graffiti in a script that goes from right to left.

And in those places, at all times – both tense and 'normal,' food is rarely lost in conversation. That's what my new friends here say. However, if you believe that a city can only be found on long walks — alone and abandoned — in places where multiple currents meet, downtown may seem like the perfect choice —- roadside barbecues, shops as old as time... but this is a place for solitary meals, piping hot meat from establishments whose half-erased signboards make a nostalgic's dreams come true.

In order to capture the vibe of the 'urban and mobile' young, the intimate cafes that have sprung up in recent years provide interesting insights. The air of informality, a promise to sit around, where nothingness is encouraged, it is always beyond the grub they offer that they are usually full. Several are led by people who have worked across the country for major corporations or aid organisations. Before the conversation begins, some owners may inquire, 'Is there going to be a political undertone to the piece?' You smile as you say 'no,' thinking, 'but what isn't political?'

Anam Khan, a communications specialist who worked with John Hopkins in their Delhi office and later US Aid, was born in Delhi, lived and studied outside the valley (though her mother lives here), and then became a partner in the well-known 'Books & Bricks' cafe on Iqbal Road here, which is essentially an American diner that serves burgers, pizzas, and pasta, with the Lamb Half Pounder being their best-selling dish.

With a capacity of 40 customers at a time, its popularity among young people aged 18 to 40 ensures that Khan is always hands-on. "During my time with US AID, I would come here to cover childhood and work in this cafe." I proposed that there be book readings and other cultural events held in this space. In fact, I was the one who organised the first one, and we also saw a sarangi player. The evening was enchanting. I began assisting them with social media."

She joined the team in 2019. The place had been completely renovated, and Khan would be here every day, serving, hosting, and conversing with customers."I never went back to Delhi," she says with a smile. She believes that the rustic and intimate setting of Books & Bricks is one of the reasons for the city's strong cafe culture's evolution. "Yes, a lot of people have recently invested. "Because there are no theatres or art galleries for recreation, eating out becomes a recreational activity."

For someone who makes it a point to visit each table and speak with customers to ensure that everything is in order, this Delhi University graduate believes that opening up more spaces will benefit the industry. "When a new cafe opens, I am not threatened." More spaces like this indicate that the industry is evolving. Previously, our vendors were located in Delhi or Chandigarh. "Most of them have arrived now."

Mir Toyyibah Ayub, then 19, founded Kashmir's first cloud kitchen, 'Dish You Wish.' This young woman, now 22, recalls being fascinated with cooking since she was a child.While other cloud kitchens have emerged in recent years, hers remains the only one that provides customised cuisines. "I was the first to make people fall in love with fish cooked with sun-dried vegetables."While the Tabak Maaz salad was a big hit, I've always believed in improvisation, such as the apricot mutton."

Someone who constantly encourages her clients to try new things,"So many young people are opening up to experimentation," Ayub adds. I was recently asked for Hibachi chicken, a Japanese dish."

Ayub, who also popularised 'Tandoori Prawns,' is also popular at wedding receptions. "A lot of people want different starters before Wazwan, and we have plenty of options."

Aghya Ayhan Rathore and his brother, who worked in the corporate sector in major cities, had long planned to open a cafe in their hometown of Srinagar last year, but it was the Pandemic that brought their plans to fruition, and thus 'The Backyard Grill' at Rajbagh was born. "Well, we're foodies, so that definitely helped."

They didn't want to buy or rent a place, so they converted a portion of their home into a cafe, hence the name. With the option of sitting indoors or outdoors, the duo has focused on warm lights, a lot of wood and greens, and neon lights to give the outdoor space a nighttime facelift.

The restaurant is well-known for its Harrisa, Lamb Steak, Open Shawarma Platter, Minced Mutton Pizza, and Injection Burgers, and it also offers special arrangements for events and photo shoots.

Rathore, like Khan, believes that it is the personalised experience that is working for them. "We are always on-site and in contact with our customers." Because the atmosphere is so welcoming, we frequently have the joining of two random tables. People who come in as our guests leave as our friends."

Several other cafes, including Chai Jhai, Cafe Liberty, and Creme Bakery Cafe, are also popular with young people and tourists.

Cafe Morels, another popular spot known for its Stuffed Chicken Steak and 'Bubble Tea,' also arose during the Pandemic. Iqra Rafiqi, the owner, has always been passionate about food and wanted to open a cafe with a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. Starting operations in 2021, the architecture of the cafe, which can seat 27 people inside, may be reminiscent of a European establishment, given that he lived in London before returning, but it contains enough Kashmiri elements to make everyone feel at home.

"When I moved back here, there were no options for authentic English breakfast or a cup of coffee that satisfied my taste." And I was confident that many Kashmiris would appreciate the opportunity to sample international cuisines. For the first time, I introduced bubble tea to Kashmir, and the response has been overwhelming."

He concludes, "A lot of credit needs to go to social media." He emphasises that the people in the city are open to new experiences and cuisines.Yes, cafe culture has grown tremendously, and I hope it will continue to grow."

He concludes, "A lot of credit needs to go to social media." He emphasises that the people in the city are open to new experiences and cuisines.

Yes, cafe culture has grown tremendously, and I hope it will continue to grow."

 

 

 

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Sukant Deepak can be contacted at sukant.d@ians.in